After our fabulous week in the Aeolian Islands we returned to mainland Sicily with an overnight stop at Milazzo before heading to the Strait of Messina. Timing was important as a strong current runs through the strait and, as we were close to spring tides, could run at 4 knots. Guide books also warn of overfalls and whirlpools caused by the different temperatures and salinity as the Tyrrhenian and Ionian seas meet! Approaching the narrow northern passage between mainland Italy and Sicily we could see the water boiling as if in a cauldron and Merryn was whisked into the strait with an extra 3 knots of current accelerating us southwards and 20 knot gusts on the beam. Fortunately all settled down as we approached Messina where we spent the night, a very pleasant town with a beautiful cathedral where we caught the end of a magnificent organ recital.
As you can see from the pictures our next stop was Mount Etna which can be accessed from the port of Riposto. Riposto is far from being a tourist town and is one of the most authentic Sicilian places we visited. Along the harbour front were numerous fish shops and a produce market and we were completely spoilt for choice with fabulous fresh fish, huge tuna, shellfish galore, famous Etna lemons and pistachio, beautiful baby courgettes, every variety of aubergine and incredibly huge bunches of the most delicious vine ripened tomatoes. It was enormously busy and sociable as all the locals came out to do their shopping in the early evening. But touristy it was not and it was quite a struggle to find a day trip to Etna. Happily we did and Davide took us on a really interesting and informative tour.
We were fortunate to be here at a time when Mount Etna was actively erupting – although not too big an eruption! By day there was a lot of smoke and ash emerging from the main crater and, by night, we could see the huge lateral lava flow glowing as it descended the volcano. As we ascended the lush vegetation of vineyards, lemon and pistachio orchards transformed to beautiful forests of oak, pine and silver birch until we emerged into areas where the older lava flows had turned the land to grey pumice and basalt. It was striking to see the transformation of bare black to grey as lichen took hold, and the the abundance of grasses and wild flowers gradually re-establishing a giant Persian carpet of colour laid down the mountain.
Higher still and we were bemused to find the old ski resort – destroyed by a huge eruption in 2003. Instead of the ski run a lava run! They have now rebuilt a ski station further around the mountain! They’ve also rebuilt the road as it came to a sudden stop!
Once we had a weather window we departed Riposto and had a great sail to Rocella Ionica and then on to Crotone, both on mainland Italy on the ‘sole of the boot’, and waited a few days in Crotone for favourable winds to take us to Greece.
This is great! We feel we’re travelling without leaving the comfort of our armchair. All the best. Xx