The last ten days of August have been less settled and less warm so we’ve been slightly more restricted in our trips. Before, we were heading high into the mountains seeking cooler air, but now we are in search of sunshine. As soon as we saw a forecast for two consecutive days of good weather we booked a hotel and packed our panniers ready for a cycle over the Cormet de Roselend and down into the beautiful little town of Beaufort. It was so chilly when we set off, freewheeling down the hill to Bourg-St-Maurice, that we had to stop in Seez for a warming coffee. Then the climb out of Bourg began and we soon warmed up as we cycled the 19km in glorious sunshine up to the Col.
We found a stunning spot overlooking the lake where we ate our packed lunch, then had to don our warmer layers as we descended into the shadows. It’s a 20km descent from the col with the road weaving through dense forest and steep gorges. The scenery is spectacular. We arrived in Beaufort mid-afternoon giving us time for a refreshing ale and a wander around this lovely little town where everything is bedecked with flowers.
The next day we did the trip in reverse. It’s 20km of steep ascent, most sections are 8% with a few at 10%. On departing Beaufort we saw what we thought were workmen and a sign alerting traffic to alternating circulation. We climbed the first few kilometres expecting roadworks….but we found that we were accidentally in the midst of a cycle race. As we paused for breath, cars with flashing amber lights and security out-riders slowly passed us by, followed by just three cyclists. We were a little perplexed but climbed back on our bikes only to find that we were being caught up in a giant peloton – more than 400 cyclists from all nations were steadily overtaking us as we headed to the Col. There was much amusement and banter as these sleek riders on flash carbon bikes peddled past….’chapeau’, ‘bon courage’ and ‘God, this is tough’ from one of the Irish guys. He was absolutely spot on. But eventually we made it to the top and then enjoyed the freewheel down to Bourg in bright sunshine. The racers were heading up to Tignes, but we stopped for cold beers and a hearty lunch after which I could barely manage the last 12km up the hill to Ste Foy.
There have been quite a few misty, rainy days and this had brought a sprinkling of fresh snow to the higher ground. We’ve had some beautiful walks through the forest from Le Planay, just across the valley, towards Les Arcs. The first was to Pré St Esprit for lunch at Belliou Fumé. Low lying cloud gave a magical mist to the forest with shafts of sunlight breaking between the branches. On a second trip we went further, to Arc 1950, for lunch at the Vache Rouge – a favourite spot which we found in lockdown when they were serving take-away pizza and beer. It was the last day of the summer season and the holiday makers all seem to have disappeared from the mountains. But on the way home we found plenty of sheep!
Now it feels that Autumn is upon us, the sun is much lower and the light less harsh. The amazing abundance of hundreds of varieties of wild flowers is now fading, with the last releasing huge clouds of seedpods into the breeze. There are still many butterflies around – I’ve seen so many different species this summer, and our hummingbird hawk moth continues visiting my flowers. Now is the time to go marmotte spotting – they are everywhere on the mountainside – presumably enjoying the last of the summer before they hibernate. We’re also enjoying the last of the summer returning to some of our favourite walks – the Tour du Mont Roup, the Lac de Retours – and collecting some more myrtilles, enough for a few more tarts.
