Days 2 and 3 – Via Rhôna – Avignon to Lapalud to Le Pouzin
Great God! This is an awful place and terrible enough for us to have laboured to it without the reward of priority. Well, it is something to have got here, and the wind may be our friend tomorrow. Now for the run home and a desperate struggle. I wonder if we can do it.
…Enough about Le Pouzin, let’s talk about the last two days cycling….
Having left the flatlands around Arles in the Camargue, we have woven our way northwards by the Rhone, with hills and mountains rising ahead. Yesterday was warm as we meandered around the vinyards of Chateauneuf-du-Pape taking in amazing views of villages and castles perched atop rocky hillsides. We arrived at last night’s Chambre d’Hote, “La Ferme Terre Bio Provence”, to be greeted warmly by the hosts, surrounded by free range chickens and a very friendly (hoping for treats) black labrador. They entertained us wonderfully, from aperitifs of home made wine, their own cheeses and yoghurt, pear compote and salad fresh from the garden, to a wonderful breakfast of very local eggs and jams.
Yesterday evening and overnight there were thunderstorms and heavy rain so we set off this morning with fingers crossed that we might avoid any more storms. The air is much cooler and leaves are falling, so today’s cycle through woodlands felt autumnal. The lavender rows are trimmed and most of the grapes harvested. Fields are full of sunflowers, still standing to attention but with brown heads and foliage dipped. As Jonathan’s above quote hints, tonight’s resting place is far less charming -we may have hit rock bottom- at a soulless Ibis with the sound of lorries thundering past. Still, at least we avoided the rain!
From the sublime to the ridiculous: the lovely Chambre d’hôte in Lapalud, and tonight’s hotel in Le Pouzin…
