Sardinia is fabulous and we love it here. We left Mahon, Menorca at first light on 4th September and arrived in Portoscuso, on the south west tip of Sardinia, on the afternoon of the next day – 195 nautical miles in 31 hours. It was a fabulous crossing in fairly calm seas with a spectacular sunset followed by a moody sunrise. A cloudless night, with only a sliver of crescent moon, was spent stargazing at the milky way in all its magnificence.
Portoscuso is a small port next to a big commercial and industrial harbour. It was great for a short stop, particularly as the winds had picked up to the standard strong northerly to be expected along the western coast of Sardinia, and we were grateful for the shelter. After catching up on sleep and enjoy a delicious dinner of Sardinian specialties – smoked tuna and swordfish followed by seafood fregola – we set off across the bay to Carloforte on Isola di San Pietro. This is a beautiful port fringed by palm trees and with pastel stucco buildings climbing the hillside behind. Even in September it was still really busy with tourists arriving on numerous ferries, but a few streets back the town square was even busier with locals greeting each other on their evening promenades. We settled into the laid back island life, cycling to the numerous stunning beaches, laid back beach bars playing ‘Californication’, lifeguards strumming guitars and crystal clear turquoise water. Food is fabulous too – they are very proud of their tuna specialties and we had some delicious rare tuna, and pasta with bottarga or fish roe. There was only one draw back – the harbour is really quite open and we had one day of 30 knot winds which was not at all relaxing. We ended up with 4 bow lines and 7 springs trying to distribute the strain as our cleats started to judder with each gust.
After almost a week we felt we really must drag ourselves away as there are so many more lovely spots to visit. We had a fabulous downwind goose-winging sail to Porto Malfatano where we dropped anchor in a sheltered bay. Taking the dinghy ashore we found another laid back beach bar. It felt almost Caribbean, with Merryn anchored off the beach whilst we enjoyed yet more delicious seafood.
We’re currently moored in Marina del Sole in the capital, Cagliari. The marina is basic – pontoons are rickety to say the least and the showers are in a tent – but the people are lovely. After my poor bike took a tumble into the sea last month its gears were failing badly. We took it to a bike repair shop and the amazing, very patient mechanic completely dismantled the gear drum – the inside looked like something recovered from an ancient shipwreck. After an hour of intricate work he had it all looking good as new. We were delighted, but he was so unhappy that just one of the gears didn’t work properly that he refused to accept any payment – grazie mille to him. We’re now enjoying some of the sights of the city with plans to head up the eastern coast over the next few days.
It looks and sounds fantastic!